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time, many DJs have learnt how to mix from this text on this site,
and Recess has expanded on the info and turned it into one of the
well known Dummies series of books – DJing for Dummies.’
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I
get the feeling I'm about to delve into some really sticky ground.
I'll either leave out some styles that others do, or describe it
differently than other people, or whatever. What I'm going to list
is some of the stuff you can do. The way I do it.
If
anyone has any suggestions on how to improve my descriptions, or
any other techniques, take some time out and Email them to me. I
might not stick it in this page, but at least I'll know it!!
On that note, there's another page to this one, which has 6 or 7
ideas that have been sent to me, there's a link at the bottom of
this page to it, but if you can't find it, click HERE.
Two further things you have to remember here. The first is one that
anyone will tell you about anything. It is important that you practice,
as much as you possibly can. don't get disheartened by your mistakes
(or at least, not for too long anyway) learn by them. Work out why
the mix you just attempted didn't work out, then try to resolve
it. To this end, I'll say again that it's really useful to stick
a blank tape into a machine and record yoruself when you're practising.
Having something to listen back to will let you know if you're on
the right path or not. One thing though, you might start getting
dis-heartened when you keep hearing you're awful - if this happens,
take the tape out, and just play around, don't be analytical or
anything, just have fun.
And secondly, you have to have confidence in your abilities. If
you are dropping in a bass drum from the next track over the breakdown
of the first track, and you're not confident that you'll get it
in time, you're gonna mess it up, and you're not going to progress
very fast. Don't wimp out by fading in this bass drum, if the mix
calls for a full on boom, boom, boom, then you're going to have
to do it. If you're practicing at home, the only person you're cheating
is yourself by taking the fade route!
One of the most useful tips I can give is to listen to as many other
Dj's as you can. Provided they are good, you should learn something
from every one you hear, even if it's just Eq control. Try and get
your hands on the mix CD's which have become so prolific over the
past couple of years. They may seem basic, but that's the point.
Listen to how these guys mix, try to copy the mix yourself, and
you've learnt it (DUH!!). I know that sounds odd, but it really
does apply. The more you do a mix, the more it's going to stay in
your head, and with a little tweak, you'll be able to apply it to
another set of tunes.
All of the following assume that you are now God-like in your
ability to Beat-mix.
I received a message from m h jemmeson asking me to refer
to what I was calling BREAKS as BREAKDOWNS. He said they are two
completely different things. You know what I'm on about though,
the part where the guiding bass drum track goes, leaving the 'Hands
in the air' less energy, stop dancing, piano (or whatever) breakdown.
Anyway, sorry for the confusion(?).
1) Breakdown Mixing: This one can
be funky if you pull it off. There's a few ways this is done, but
I'll just mention a couple:
Firstly, deck A is about to go into a breakdown. Tune B
starts with a bass drum and not much else. The breakdown of A and
the intro of B are the same length. Match the two tunes so
they both run at the same tempo. Cue B to the opening Bass
drum. As deck A hits the first beat of the breakdown, move
the x fader to the middle, and let B go.
Run them at the same time, and when A's breakdown finishes,
the main part of B begins, all you have to do is move the
x-fader over, and the mix is done. Try to avoid a big whoosh as
you start deck B . You'll get the hang of it after a while,
even if it means putting the x-fader quarter of the way when you
start, and almost immediately bringing it to the center. As the
breakdown in A starts to finish, move the X-fader so that
it now favours tunes B , you can still hear A clearly, but
B now has more clarity. This stops there being a sudden change
in the music.
The second is when the intro of B is quiet. It's almost a
breakdown in itself. As the break in A begins, drop in the
intro of B . Can take a while to get right (Even longer to
find two records that match) but with skillful use of kill switches
to EQ out the bass, (Explained later) it can work out nice.
2)Reverse of above. I feel a bit cheeky putting this in,
but you never know, someone might not have thought of it. Record
A ends with just a bass drum. Record B starts as though
it's a breakdown. Drop B over A, and when A
finishes, B begins. Ta da!!!
2b)With Bass Drum This is exactly the same as the above, except
that the intro of B has a bass drum running through, it.
Use the kills to stop any clashes, wait for A to end, put
the bass back into B and you're off.
3)Spinback. This can be great, but beware,
use it too much and people will think the only reason you do it
is because you can't mix! It can whip people into a frenzy
though, and if things aren't going you're way in a mix, it can sometimes
help you out. It goes like this, beat match two tunes, run them
together so that both bars finish at the same time, then as A
finishes the bar, and B is about to get into a pumping part
of the tune, place your finger on the label of A, and pull
the record back, reasonably sharply. I used to do it from the outer
portion of the record, but soon realised why the needle kept on
skipping across the record!! Anyway, as you spinback A, bring
in B . With correct timing, A will stop spinning backwards
as you bring the x-fader all the way across to the start of B
(I didn't realise how difficult this was all going to be to describe
in words) I use it most often to fix a mix between tunes that have
different hi-hat sounds/clarity. If the tune you're taking out has
sharper, clearer Hi-hats etc than the one you are about to bring
in, it can make the incoming tune sound really dull, so by letting
A run overB a little, then using a spinback to take
it out, the difference isn't as immediate and noticeable. 4) Power-offs and Dead-Stops Kind of in the
same family as the spin back I guess.
I'll
do the Dead-Stop one first. On most higher level decks, which have
a good braking system to the deck plate, if you hit the stop/start
button during play, the deck will comes to a halt within a second.
This is the concept. The great thing about this technique is that
people will look up at you thinking "Arse, he just cocked up!!"-
but AAAAHH!! They are wrong!
The
deal here is, on the final beat of a bar, hit the stop button on
the deck that is playing out. Assuming the braking force on your
deck is the correct length, the record will come to a complete halt
in the space of one beat - meaning it's dead just in time for the
next beat. Of course, the nest beat is the first beat of a new section
(or phrase) so you whip the crossfader across to your other record,
which of course was already running in time with the first record
- sorted! You'll have to work out the best combinations yourself
of when, where and what tunes to use for doing this - some times
it sounds incredible and the floor go nuts, other times you just
sound like an amateur.
The
power off is to turn off the power to the deck, as to make it gradually
run slower and slower until it comes to a halt. This is a really
good one to do if you have a good lighting jock next to you. Wait
until you're at the point you want to do this, and turn off the
power to the deck (using the proper switch that you use to switch
off the deck at the end of the night). If the light guy is cool,
get him to kill the lights at the same time - chances are, everyone
will think "Power Cut!!". Then slam in the next tune. And I mean
SLAM it in, it'll take em all by surprise, and hopefully really
jazz them up.
The
rest of the stuff I tend to do utilises kill switches, knobs,
so I'll explain them next. You can get around it if you don't have
them, by bringing in the track at a lower level, but I recommend
them, it can make mixing so much easier.
Most mixers have EQ units for each channel, and the good ones will
have a section on each one saying 'cut' which effectively kills
the bandwidth selected. I tend to use the Bass cut most, the treble
one has its uses, and I hardly use the mid section for mixing purposes,
more for adjusting the sound of the whole tune. a) Cutting The Treble. There's not many
times you HAVE to cut the treble, but sometimes, a shrill hi-hat
or voice can make a mix sound really fuzzy, or the two Hi-hats will
key together, either cancelling each other out, or producing some
(sometimes cool) phasing effects. So even killing the treble so
that it's not quite as powerful as the out record - yet still present,
can alter the state of a mix (Just remember to put it back in once
you fully put in record. But a good trick is to cut the treble on
the incoming tune for a couple of bars, then swap it over with the
treble of the outgoing tune - it can really tidy up the mix. Just
be careful not to take too much out - or you'll end up losing the
dynamics of the outgoing tune.
B) Cutting the Bass. This can have many uses, cutting the bass
can help to introduce two tunes that are out of key. Kill the bass
in tune B , then drop it in, have A and B running
at the same time, then as the bar ends, crash in the Bass in tuneB
, and crash out the Bass in tune A. This does work out better
with tunes that are in key, in fact, if there is any melody or singing
in the out of key tunes, even cutting the bass isn't going to help
that much, the voice'll still sound out of tune. It can take a lot
of practice, sometimes killing the bass altogether sounds horrific,
but leaving a little bit of it in sounds Ok. Practice Practice!!
Killing the bass also helps when plain beat mixing. You may sometimes
find that when you mix B (which has a bass drum intro) into
A (which has a bass drum outro) the drums clash with each other.
This happens one of two ways, they either go into phase, doubling
the intensity, or out of phase, effectively killing each other.
Cutting the bass on the in record solves this, then by either re-introducing
the bass on B while gradually taking out A, or by
crashing them in and out respectively, the mix can sound seamless.
Again, it depends on the tune involved. Don't whinge if it doesn't
work, some records just have to be beaten into submission.
You can create some smashing effects by using all three Eq's to
their potential, I'm not going to list them, coz I don't know all
of them, but experiment and you'll get it.
The phasing that I mentioned above doesn't always appear as a problem.
Get the two records that you learnt how to mix with out of the rubbish
bin, and slap them back on the decks for old time sake. Match them
both up, up start them both up at the same time, so that they are
identical. (It doesn't have to be identical, but it helps.)Move
the x-fader to the middle, so that both tunes are blaring out at
the same time. You may have to lower the level of one of them to
get this effect or to stop any unwanted miss-match of noise. Gently
place you finger on one of the decks, through time you'll know which
one of the two works best and how much pressure to put on it , but
for now, try the one that you've just brought in to the mix and
put on very light pressure. What you are aiming for is the record
to slow down a tiny amount, making it go out of phase with the original
tune. I can't stress enough how tiny an amount is needed. The effect
you'll hopefully achieve is one like a phaser effect pedal.
How fast you crash in the x-fader can have a lot to do with the
sound of your mixes. You'll be able to tell how you're gonna use
the fader by really listening to your tunes before you slam them
into mix. Some tunes have a great crescendo (gradual uplift of power
in the music) beginning, meaning that you can mix them low over
the outgoing tune, with the crescendo happening in the background.
As the crescendo comes to its pinnacle point, the x-fader gets moved
to the middle position (or favouring the incoming channel just a
little), all eq's and faders for that tune are set to their optimum
position (making the tune more powerful than the outgoing), and
as the final POW of the intro happens, the x - fader gets moved
full to the incoming tune. Kinda hard to describe. I know what I
mean, but if you are having any trouble comprehending, send me a
note, and I'll adjust - Ok?
If the tune you are bringing in has, for example, a very simple
bass and hi-hat intro, the best way to bring it into the mix is
on the hi-hats. Again, it comes down to the tune you're mixing out
of, how complicated it is, but it is less obvious when brought in
on the hi-hat beats, increasing the amount you can hear on each
strike. It goes the same for taking out a tune, once the incoming
has become dominant. You don't have to go with each hi-hat
strike, doing that may make the mix happen too fast, but using them
as a guide really does help.
Well there it is, I hope you get what Im talking about, which is
just moving the fader over and back on the beat(bar?) of choice.
You
should end up with a comprehensive list of tunes that you know you
can mix together perfectly. It's great for a while, but try not
to limit yourself into thinking that only those tunes go together.
I've fallen into that trap before. Here's a mix that I can't escape
from (Please excuse the track selection)
Blue Adonis - Disco Cop.
Vengaboys - Up and Down.
Nailin and Kane - Beachball (Tall Paul mix)
Mori Kante - Yeke Yeke
Da Hool - Meet her at the Love Parade
Kadoc - Nightrain
BBG - Snappiness.
I've
now recorded this selection, and uploaded it as a kind of tutorial.
(The actual wording when I describe the mix isn't really that good
(or accurate, as I changed a lot of the in/out lengths) But I'll
try and make it a bit easier to get through soon. Click HERE
to go to the tutorial page.)
As I said, don't think less of me for the track selection, there
is some cheese in there, but that's what you get for playing in
a bar! Placed correctly, each one of these tunes goes seamlessly,
perfectly into the next.
What I'm saying though, is that everytime I picked up Beachball,
I'd automatically reach for Mori Kante afterwards, because it's
the mix I knew worked, and didn't really differ from - because it
worked so well. Just watch out, people can get very bored of the
same mix, over and over!!
PLACEMENTS
The
other big thing though (and the most important of all) is your placement
of the mix. It may help you to read the page preceding this one
( Beat
Structures ) if you have not already done so. I know that a
lot of you know all about this already, but it may help you out
if you don't know what I'm on about with some of the terms.
(I'll point out now that this is only a very small scratch
on the surface of things you can do, and is limited more by the
very linear approach to beat structures that I am referring. DO
NOT think that this is the only kind of structure, or the only kind
of placements you can use, your mixing should be as individual as
you are, this is only a beginning, for those who haven't got a clue.)
If
you look at the virtual tune that I've mentioned in the Beat Structures
page (see, this is why you should go look) then there are a couple
of places that would make it nice to mix. Let's assume that the
tune you're about to mix in has the same structure as the one going
out. For those who can't be arsed looking at that page, here it
is again:-
For the
purposes of this, for some reason I've done it all as though you're
not using the cross fader. I'm not too sure why, when you look at
the rest of the page and see that I've talked in terms of cross faders
until now, let's just call it equality.
1)
The first
way we could mix these two tunes are using the intro's and outro's.
Both of these last the same amount of time. Let's assume in this case
that the intro is musical without any beat to it, and the outro is
just a beat. Simply start the intro of tune two when the outro of
tune one begins. This takes a lot of nerve to do because you're going
to want to have the fader up around 3/4 of the way when you start
tune two, increasing it to full in an instant. Any error in timing
when starting this and it will be obvious, and crap. But it will work
really well. It sounds as though a new tune has been cut completely
in, but because the drum sounds of the last tune are still present,
it's enough of a blend to keep most people happy.
Tune one ends with (say) a cymbal, just as tune two goes into it's
build up into the main tune. Kazzam, take out tune one, let tune
two keep going at it's perfect level, and you're sorted.
2)
In the
next instance, tune two still has the same structure, but this time
the intro is a simple bass drum one. After the intro, it goes into
a nice chunky tune. Tune one (the outgoing) goes into a simple bass
beat as its outro.
Start the outgoing tune 16 bars before the end of the first tune
(with 16 bars being the length of its intro). Kill the bass on it,
and the hit-hats a little. Bring the fader up to full and at the
end of the eighth bar, swap the hi-hat frequencies.
Tune
one will build out of its last bar, ready to go into its outro.
At the point, when it's about to hit the outro, whip the bass in
tune two to its optimum position, with the fader at its optimum
position, and either crash out tune one, or kill the bass on it
and bring it out in time with the hi-hats for the next 4 bars measures.
A great way to change the key of the mix.
3)
Take the
in point of the second tune back yet another 16 bars. Now what will
happen, is that the intro of tune two will stop and go into the meat
of the tune before tune one has finished doing its thing. Follow the
same principle as above for bringing it in and for swapping the hi
frequencies (it might also help to do the same kind of thing with
the mid frequency). And again with the bass, when tune two goes into
the meat of its tune, bring the bass up to full, and take the bass
out of tune one. How much of the bass you take out depends on the
complicity of the bass line, and whether the two tunes have matching
keys. Then, when tune one hits it's outro, you can either crash it
out, or fade it. But I prefer crashing it out in this instance. Tune
two has already made its mark, there's nothing left to prove with
tune one.
4)
Sometimes,
it's cool NOT to follow the 8 bar / 16 bar format of the intro. By
doing it that way, the mixing can become pretty predictable. So if
you have the right two tunes, and are brave enough to risk the look
of people going "uh?" then try the last two options, but instead of
16 or 8 bars before, try 12 and 4. Admittedly, 4 bars before the end
will probably work lot better, even though there will be a few bars
of just drums in this case, but that can add to the anticipation of
the crowd - as long as the set's going so well that you have people
in the palm of your hands by now anyway.